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July 16 - South Dakota: Horse Sanctuary, Crazy Horse, & Mount Rushmore

After pulling into The Black Hills Wild Horse Sanctuary late last night, we awoke this morning and, from our RV window, saw a herd of wild horses heading for the shaded hills before the sun got too hot. That is my kind of morning!

After breakfast, we toured The Black Hills Wild Horse Sanctuary, an 11,000 acre ranch that allows 550 wild mustangs to roam.

The sanctuary was started by Dayton Hyde, who still lives onsite and is active in the operations at 86 years old.

Currently, there are more wild horses than our national herd management areas can support and maintain. The herds are managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). Each year the wild herds are thinned. Those that are captured are sorted into adoptable/un-adoptable groups. Those that are suitable can be adopted out of various stations ran by the BLM. As you can imagine, adopting a wild mustang is not an easy task. There are few ranches with the time, money, desire, or facilities to accommodate them. This leaves these horses to stand in feedlot corrals to live out the rest of their days. The situation, as a whole, is pretty sad. Without the culling, numerous horses would starve and diminish the grazing for other animals. With the culling, wild horses accustomed to roaming free are destined to dwell in a small cramped pen. Horses used to be sent for slaughter or euthanized. However, activists have since put the brakes on these practices. There is no easy answer to the growing problem, but in the grand scheme -- it is the horses that are being forgotten.

Knowing the situation as it is, Mr. Hyde used his life savings to purchase the land that has become a sanctuary to unadoptable horses that would have otherwise languished in corrals.

The ranch has been used for movie sets. (Hidalgo was filmed in the area.) In addition to the horses, the ranch boasts old homestead sites, a wagon train route, and the sacred site of the Sundance Festival that was celebrated by the Lakota Indians and was outlawed by the U.S. Government when they pushed the Lakota onto reservations. Carved into the sandstone rocks are petroglyphs dating back 10,000 years depicting hunting of mammoth, rock carvings by more recent Lakota Indians, and carvings by pioneers on the wagon trains.

Mr. Hyde (who is someone I'd love to meet) feels that the Lakota have as much rights to the land as he does. Now, the Lakota return to their sacred land for the Sundance Festival each June. No one on the ranch walks or drives on the original festival site out of respect for the grounds. The Lakota have chosen a new ceremonial area, and we had the opportunity to visit it (but not to touch anything). The large pole is a cottonwood tree that is carried in from miles away. It is planted over a buffalo heart and decorated with colored cloths. Each cloth represents a prayer. When the cloth blows off, the prayer has been answered.

We took a private three hour tour of the ranch. It was pretty incredible.  I have taken LOADS of photos.  So, I am posting a few here.  You can click to view our entire photo album in the right column of the blog -- it has lots of AMAZING photos!

I also bought The American Mustang Guidebook at the gift shop.  So, we'll be adding wild horse watching to our "To Do List" as we travel on.







A Blue Stemmed Prickly Poppy.  The stem is a like a straw full of yellow paint.  The Lakota used it for war paint.



















 THIS IS A FIGHT SEQUENCE BETWEEN TWO GELDINGS (WHO DON'T REALIZE THEY AREN'T STALLIONS ANY MORE) OVER A GROUP OF MARES:
The Grulla (right) has recently taken the Bay's (left) band of mares.  So, the Bay has been trying to get them back.












The grulla re-gathers his mares.


Deafeated.  Maybe another day...





More Horses at the Sanctuary:





Lakota Prayer Pole

Lakota Prayer Pole


Ancient Petroglyphs




Josh's all-time favorite lawn ornament.  In the yard of the great-grandson of the original homesteader family that settled the ranch.  He still owns a 150 acre plot.
Bachelor Stallion
Painted Desert, Mustang Stallion



After our tour wrapped up around noon, we headed back to the RV for some lunch and decided to avoid the hottest part of the day by taking a nap --- a 4 hour nap. Apparently, we all needed a rest.

We had to get the boys closed toe shoes for our Sanctuary Tour to prevent any rattlesnakes from biting toes.  If you note in our photos, they pretty much wear them 24/7.  Easton's are often on the wrong feet (as they are here).  He "likes them that way".


We left the sanctuary and visited the Mammoth Site to see an active dig for Columbian Mammoth bones.

Easton put on this hat in the Mammoth Site's Gift Shop.  He tells me, "Mom, I'm Yo-Gabba-Gabba!":





For those of you who aren't familiar with the children's show character, here he is.  We thought his comment was quite funny!
Yo Gabba Gabba


Then we drove through Wind Cave National Park, which was full of wildlife sightings. We had pulled off to see two antelope when a lone bison appeared and headed down the trail toward us. He was walking down the well-worn path to reach a muddy area. The bison use the mud to cool off and to eat valuable minerals. The air was humid and it started to sprinkle, forming a huge double rainbow. So, there we were -- with antelope to our left, a buffalo to our right, and a giant rainbow spanning overhead. Pretty sure it doesn't get much better than this...


Looking at antelope on our left.
Here comes a buffalo on our right.
Comin' down the trail.
Eating mud for minerals.

A rainbow forms.
Then, it stretches all the way across.
Then, a double rainbow.


Taking a pic of a pretty bridge.

Then realized there was a bison below.

Bison & Bridge

Wind Cave NP backs up to Custer State Park. We took a drive through Custer Park, seeing more Whitetail and Mule Deer, Bison, Antelope, and gazillions of Prairie Dogs.



We reached a stand of pines where a herd of bison were grazing. We all quietly sat down on tree stumps a short distance from the herd with our camera and binoculars and just enjoyed the serenity of the scene. The little ones were scurrying under their mommas, the large bulls were grunting and calling -- it made my hair stand on end.








We leave Custer State Park, looking forward to checking out the Crazy Horse Memorial and Mount Rushmore National Monument.

The Crazy Horse Memorial was started in 1948 by sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski. The Indian Chiefs invited Ziolkowski (who had worked for a short time at Mt. Rushmore) to sculpt the monument so that "the white man [will] know that the red man has great heroes too". They commissioned him to carve a statue of Crazy Horse, a Lakota Indian Chief of the South Dakota Black Hills.



An original excavator, no longer in operation ;)
Sketch of how the carvings will be made.

Scaled Version on Left.  Actual Project on Right.
Crazy Horse witnessed the government foresake their promises of the peace treaty in 1868.  The government had promised that his tribe could remain on their sacred lands, but they failed to provide the supplies they had promised and ultimately took the lands they had promised to them. He led his tribe to defend their lands at the Battle of Little Bighorn, but ended up surrendering to the military. He was fatally stabbed in the back by a soldier at Fort Robinson in 1887.

The Crazy Horse Monument is far from being complete. The original sculptor has since died. His wife, children, and grandchildren continue to oversee the project. The finished piece will be 563 ft high and 641 ft long!

Josh and I remarked that while we have seen the works of past civilizations that took several lifetimes to complete, we couldn't think of another contemporary project that would do so.

We finally pulled into Mount Rushmore at 10 p.m. The laser light show had concluded and the hoards of people were headed for the exits. It is a SPECTACULAR time to see it. The monument is dramatically lighted and the place is virtually empty.



Mount Rushmore is carved out of granite rock at Harney Peak. It was sculpted by Gutzon Borglum and a crew of 400 workmen from 1927-1941. Each of the four faces, featuring Washington, Lincoln, Jefferson, and Roosevelt, is 60 ft tall.

We arrived at our campsite at 11:30. Ate pizza and were in bed at 12:15. I really need to re-work our hours of operation ;)

July 15 - South Dakota: Corn Palace & The Badlands

If Iowa was a blur of corn, then South Dakota is a blur of grass. The rolling prairie stretches as far as the eye can see.




The fields are dotted with cows -- which have got to be hot. They are in open pastures with no shelter or shade.
Hot Cows

At first, you want to say that the landscape is pretty, but then you may decide otherwise. Despite it's green color, it's not lush. I think that due to it's lack of trees, its rolling green hills leave you with an impression of "imposing" rather than "tranquil".

We are here during a heat wave -- much to Josh's chagrin. It is supposed to spike tomorrow at 104F.

We started off our day by pulling out of our campsite at Camp America Campgrounds in Salem, South Dakota.

Our first stop was the Corn Palace in Mitchell, SD. The Corn Palace is a basketball arena used by the local high school team, The Kernels, in the winters. During the summer it is host to 500,000 visitors who stop to admire it's exterior decorated with elaborate murals of corn. The facade is newly designed each year and costs $130,000 to complete. Inside, are photos of the various facades it has had over the years (built in the late 1800's). It is cute, albeit a bit corny (Sorry.), but is still a must-see.


Corn Mural on the Building's Side

The Original Corn Palace







Next, we stopped at Al's Oasis for lunch and their famous homemade pie. Their pies certainly lived up to their fame!



We pulled off at a roadside tourist trap to feed prairie dogs.  I later learn from a handy Park Ranger that area prairie dogs are now carriers of the bubonic plague.  SUPER FANTASTIC!!!!  UGH!

Adorable Plague Carriers

Said Tourist Trap
Said Tourist Trap's Trappings





Josh shows the boys "how it's done".
And the prairie dog runs...


Then it was on to our drive through The Badlands National Park. The rocks of The Badlands seem to rise out of the prairie from nowhere. We began our drive around 5 p.m. so the fading sunlight played an incredible light show off of the sides of the stratified rocks. of course, the photos don't come close to capturing the extent of their majesty.










As you travel through the park, you also trek through sections of The Buffalo Gap National Grasslands and the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation.

Our wildlife sightings in the park included: Bighorn sheep, Pronghorn, an Owl, Thousands of Prairie Dogs, and a jackrabbit. The elusive buffalo remained unseen.




Owl on Praire Dog Mound
Owl vs. Prairie Dog

Owl: 0        Prairie Dog: 1

Pronghorn

Breathtaking.

On our trips, Josh typically drives and I navigate and create the itinerary. For the most part, we fulfill our respective duties well. Sometimes, Josh gets a little Evel Knievil. I have been known to pack a bit more than humanly possible into a day. A lapse on either of our parts usually results in a spat where one of us really doesn't enjoy the other's company for a brief period of time.

Well, yesterday's fiasco really wasn't the my direct fault, but did fall under my job duties. I had planned for us to drive through The Badlands from north to south. At the south end, we were going to drive over to Hot Springs. I had made hard-to-get reservations to camp inside The Black Hills Wild Horse Sanctuary. The map showed a road that got us there within about 30 miles once we were out of the park. Well, our drive ended up being epic. The road was a dirt washboard. We traveled it for a distance, but then had to take the LONG way.

Long story short -- I had slated for us to arrive around 7. We pulled in at midnight, having eaten a dinner of Sun Chips. The stars were incredible and the full moon was giant. But the beauty was lost on us. We were wiped out.

Tomorrow, we go see the horses....

July 14 - Lake Okoboji, Iowa

We stopped by Lake Okoboji in Iowa this evening. It is apparently one of three blue water lakes in the world. (The others being Lake Louise In British Columbia and one in Geneva, Switzerland.) Got there, looked around, and it didn't seem impressive. So we kept going.

Iowa was corn, corn, and more corn. Apparently 97% of the state is under cultivation.

We've crossed the State line and are into South Dakota. We are about 20 miles from arriving at our campground for the night in Salem. South Dakota is where we plan to start our adventures.

We have a CRAZY schedule planned for the next few days. Stay tuned...

July 14 - Back on the Road

We're back on the road.

The shop patched the problem, and it looks to be waterproof.  We're hoping it makes it through the trip.




They also fixed the electrical problem. No more Smoking RV!

Headed to Lake Okoboji...

July 14 - Captain Josh

Here is Josh, while driving on the highway, holding onto our patch which doesn't want to stay on the last 10 miles to the repair shop.





July 13 & 14 - Fishing in Des Moines, Iowa

This morning we are off to see if we can get the fiberglass fixed.  Then, we are heading out of Des Moines.  That's "The Plan" anyway...

Last night we stayed at Cutty's Campground. (The camping fee was 50% off with our Passport America pass.)  Here are some photos of the boys fishing.  Easton caught a good one.





July 13 - Hillbilly Patch Job

Josh's Fabulous Patch-Job with Tarp and Duct Tape.





We are officially "The Clampetts"!!

=)

July 12 & 13 - A Comedy of Errors

Well, we got the RV fixed yesterday by about 3 p.m. Then, we weren't 10 minutes on the highway and the fiberglass side blew off. Not even kidding...







So, we decided to stay at Kickapoo State Park, located in...(drumroll, please)...DANVILLE, ILLINOIS! ;)

We needed to patch the side of the RV with a tarp and duct tape before it rained (which it proceeded to pour all night) and empty our tanks.

Josh bought one-size-fits-all disposable gloves for emptying the tanks. Apparently they aren't...




This morning we are going to try to leave Danville for the third time. Next stop is Des Moines, Iowa by this evening. We have an appointment with fiberglass repair in the morning.

My vote is to turn around. Josh says it's "California or Bust". It's all about the journey, right?

July 10, 11, 12 - Dansville, Illinois for a Second Day

July 10:
I flew into Chicago to meet Josh in the motorhome.  He had a meeting in Indiana over the weekend and so picked up the motorhome on his way to the meeting.

Then, together, we drove to Dansville, Illinois to pick up the kids.  They had spent the past week with my mom and dad getting in some Grammy and Grandpa time in North Carolina.  My parents drove them to Dansville so that we could meet up with them and start our trip.

After getting the kids, it was getting late so we decided to overnight in Dansville and get a fresh start in the morning.  We still needed to fill up the fresh water tank and load up on groceries in the motorhome, so we decided to spend the night at a hotel in order to get a shower and some breakfast.


July 11:
Our morning was spent at Walmart in Dansville getting the last minute things and food for the trip.  Leaving Dansville, we made it almost to Champaign, IL when we feel a strong vibration and thud-thud-thud -- the tell-tale signs of tire problems.  Sure enough, sheared studs and no lugnuts on the left rear side -- basically leaving nothing to hold the back tires on the axle on that side.  Thankfully, we had bought the Good Sam Roadside Assistance (see the post below).  By the time they came to get us on the side of I74, it was 5 p.m.  The arranged tow truck, towed us back (going the wrong way on the shoulder of I74) to the nearest town ---- Dansville, IL ---- and back to another Dansville hotel to await the repair in the morning.

July 12:
While updating you all this morning, I am sipping my morning tea from a Continental Buffet from a hotel in Dansville, IL.  It's the same thing I was doing at this time yesterday.  It feels like Groundhog's Day.

I am hoping they can get all of the parts this morning so that we can be on our way this afternoon.  Maybe today we'll actually make it out of Dansville...

And We're Off...

I thought I would share a few things that I bought for our trip which will hopefully prove useful to us -- and maybe to you if you ever decide to hit the road...
  • We joined the Good Sam Club and Passport America.  Both offer HUGE discounts at participating campgrounds -- making their nominal fees well worth it on a longer trip.  Good Sam Club also gave us a free 3 night stay at one of their campgrounds which paid for the membership.
  • We bought the Good Sam Emergency Road Service.  Just in case...
  • On our first stop at a National Park, I plan to get annual pass to the National Parks.  
  • We also have a National Parks Passport that we've been using with the kids.  We plan to add more stamps on this trip.  Its a fun way to keep track of our travels.


 Hi-Ho, Hi-Ho, It's off to the West We Go!